turn a racing seat into an office chair
There\'s no moving chair in my garage. -
There are only a few metal folding chairs.
So it seems like a good idea to pair the racing seat with the office chair establishment.
Of course, in my glory, I forgot that I didn\'t have an office chair where people could eat.
So I have to find one first.
I went to a local second-hand furniture store and asked them if they had any damaged chairs.
The best one has a square base attached to the bottom mat.
The last one I got was quite close to that ideal.
When I was there, I bought a chair cheaper and a free double sofa.
For someone who is otherwise difficult to talk to, this is a huge coup.
It is true that it would be helpful to live in a large metro area with lots of businesses needing and unloading furniture.
However, you can use the casters of a friend or family member whose mats have flattened or become unusable.
You might think now, \"Man, you have so much trash in your garage, why do you need a roll chair?
\"But you already know the answer as an Instructure abilista. . .
It might be like, \"If I\'m only worried about what I need, I\'ll live in a cardboard box with inflatable dolls (
Yakuza from the United States
The movie with Viggo Mortensen. )
\"I skipped the boring steps of dragging the chair home and removing the old mat.
The perfect match between the chair base and the racing seat is definitely not an opportunity to happen, or if it happens, it will waste a better fortune spent on the lottery.
So let\'s say you need to do some adapters. What to use?
Ordinary Joe or Jane has three choices. -1)Wood --
Easy to cut and drill, but you need at least 3/8 \"(10mm)
Thick plywood or 1x2 plates that are not very soft.
Please keep in mind the wood grain associated with the adapter design. 2)Aluminum (Aluminium)--
It is almost as easy to cut and drill as wood, but you may need 1/4 \"(6. 5mm)
Minimum thickness. 3)STEEL --
More work is required for cutting and drilling, but even 1/8 \"(3mm)
Thickness works in most cases.
Steel 3/16 thick can handle almost anything.
Please note that most car frames use 1/4 \"(6mm)
They support static loads of more than 2000 (900 kg)no problemo.
Rare metals such as plastic, composite or titanium-
You may not need to read this note if you have these.
This is to get a general idea of the distance the adapter must cover.
In my case, the horizontal difference between the seat hole and the base hole is about inches (2. 5cm. )
Finally, two pieces of 12 \"x 2\" x 1/4 (30cm x 5cm x 6. 5mm)
A big square plate (
About the size of a textbook)
Looks like a better solution, but won\'t do more in this case because--1)
The base is strong enough on the chair.
It acts non-diffusion loads down to about 300 (140kg. )2)
The seat holes are basically nuts embedded in the plastic, so any failure is likely to be reflected by pulling them out directly instead of pulling them out from the side.
Here I took one of them and drew a line along the length of about 1/2 \"(13mm)from one side.
I then drew the lines from the center of the three seat holes until they intersect the main line.
I\'m going to drill at these intersections.
Did the same thing. -
Make a mirror--
On the other side. Used my handy-
Dandy drilling machine to hole.
As described in the previous step, the intersection provides the target for the drill bit.
But also remember the following points: 1)
Select a bit of the same size or a bit small (not much)
Larger than the bolt that will pass through the hole. 2)
The best way is to use an electric drill, but use a hand drill at a critical moment. 3)
Fix the workpiece using a clip or otherwise.
A heavy hammer on the rotating piece will provide sufficient motivation to follow this rule. 4)
Wear eye protection. Gloves too.
Metal scraps hurt. 5)
Lubrication drill bit.
Even canned lubricants are the best. 6)
Clean up your shavings when you\'re done.
The more carefully you mark (
The more accurately you drill your work, the better your end result will be.
However, in order for the drill to match the seat, you may have to lengthen the drill.
In the south of the United States, we call hole elongation \"hog ditch \".
I used a Dremel tool with a carbide drill bit to plug the hole.
Some people like to hold the drill bit and put it in and out of the hole at a strange angle, which is a good way to sprain your wrist-
They say beauty is painful, but I prefer to keep that truth in the field of hungry supermodels wearing high heels.
I used a mark (
Green on the right side of the hole)
Help me remember which direction I need to run in.
Remove the metal stuck to the hole using a file--
It makes a saferto-handle piece.
Repeat on the other side.
Fix the two plates in the seat-
Note I need some reminders so I don\'t forget which plate went.
As I found out when I pulled the plate and painted, some kind of hard scribe or dimples would be better.
Set the seat on the base to get as uniform quality distribution as possible-both side-to-side and front-to-back.
If you don\'t want to measure with a ruler or tape like me, it\'s wrong in front.
Mark the hole of the base, remove the plate used for drilling, re-
Attach check and occupancy if required.
It\'s a good time to sit down before you put everything together for the last time, make sure your seat keeps your weight, and don\'t throw you behind your back because it\'s too far from the back.
If you are using bare steel, consider applying a layer of paint on it to add a few years of protection.
My chair also needs to put the pivot pin back in place and use c-
But the art part is done.
Once you \'ve assembled your work, sit down, have a cold drink, have a drink or drink, and do a great job.
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