transform an office chair into a ski rack

by:Frank Tech     2019-11-14
Last snow season, I took part in a massive cross-country skiing.
I bought myself a full set of gear and I found myself on the trail almost anytime I could imagine.
In fact, I spend most of my time skiing in the dark with my mom and sister.
One thing that is always a bit painful is that when we get home after an outing, we have wet skis to deal.
Most of the time, they are just held up in the corner to dry.
In addition to occasional falls, this works well for the three sets of skis we have.
This season is a little different.
Our success last year prompted us to buy skis for my other family members.
Now we have up to six skis and the corner is not a great place to store so much gear.
It was with this in mind that I started looking around for something that could be used as a ski rack.
The main obstacle I have to cross is space management.
There are six people in my family and there is not much space.
The solution appears in the form of an old no back (
At some point in the past, the back has been removed)office chair.
A spinning ski rack can meet this requirement well.
Those who know me well know that I am a terrible bag rat.
I keep anything useful I can see.
Normally it would be great, but as I said before, space is a problem with my home.
I decided to use as much material as possible around my house.
This can not only reduce the cost of the project, but also help to limit the time and help eliminate some additional confusion.
Talk about a multi-purpose project!
Below is a list of the materials I use and the tools I use to complete this project.
Granted, this list is not comprehensive, but it does give me a general idea of what I\'m using.
I found it many times when I had to adjust my original design to fit the material I had at hand.
That\'s why this project is so satisfying.
It\'s interesting to try to come up with more or less random ways to use plywood, carpet and glue to make something useful.
I believe this is the true spirit of DIY.
Material: Plywood: I used two 5/8 AC grade plywood, about 32 inch by 24 inch.
I work in a cabinet shop and these are all the wrong places.
This plywood has a very good surface layer of pine wood that usually makes up the interior of our cabinet.
I really don\'t need such high plywood.
Finally, I did not get any plywood to be checked temporarily.
I just got this. . .
Wood: I used the Redwood 4x4 post left by another project.
Three lengths are also used (
About 40 inch each)
About 6 feet of Pine 1 × 2.
These last two places for mill finish, I did not Polish except to remove the sharp edges and remove the blowout from the Saw piece.
Carpet: The neutral brown carpet used has 12 to 15 square feet.
An office chair: \"nuff said yes.
: Wood screws, wood glue, glue spray-on adhesive (I used 3M Hi-
Strong 90 spray from Home Depot)
, The wooden gasket of the base, and the metal gasket used to pass the screws through the legs of the chair. All materials used in this project should be available at any time in places such as Home Depot, Menards, and similar stores.
Office chairs can be found in thrift stores, roadside, garbage can be taken away, or in other more imaginative places.
The only standard for the chair is that it is stable and the seat pivot is free to move.
The tools I use are also the ones I already have.
I cut on the wood with a composite herringbone saw, but even a one-handle saw can do the job.
Compass, pencil, putter, floss (Need to explain)
, Tape measure, steel ruler, cordless drill, spiral drill, twist drill, clamp saw with wood blade, clamp and firm table.
These are just the tools I use, just like the material, which can also be adjusted and replaced as needed.
I have three basic goals for this project: require minimal floor space, rotate to facilitate loading and unloading, and have some kind of positive retention to keep the position of the skis in place.
With that in mind, I made a plan for what I wanted.
The base is just a carpeted ring for skis and poles to rest.
The size of the hole in the center makes the removed part available for the \"adapter:\" part in the middle.
The piece must be large enough to cover the metal stand that supports the seat of the chair, but small enough for the ski room to remain on the base.
The top is where magic really happens.
It is slotted so the skis and poles can be tilted to the center.
The flaps covering the carpet will then remain in place to provide the reservation I want.
Keeping the skis more or less upright means that this shelf only needs as much floor space as the chair used to be.
The rotating wheel at the bottom of the chair leg makes this thing spin and when you try to turn the skis I disable the seat pivot to prevent the skis from slipping out.
I actually followed the plan well, but made some changes there and achieved better results.
The project doesn\'t need to be precise, but, I firmly believe that it is doing well, so I went a bit too far.
Nevertheless, the result is worth it.
I made the plan with plywood.
They are below 24 inch.
To get the exact circle of the three \"horizontal\" racks, I marked the center of the square with the width of the plywood.
The line used to do this needs to be drawn all the way to the corner of the square (
Need them later to cut the slots at the top)
After measuring the longest distance from the center of the seat bracket, I found that the middle level requires about 11 inch in diameter to cover the metal.
This circle is engraved on a piece of plywood with a compass (
Make sure the measurements are correct, I have to redraw the larger inner circle because my inner circle is off).
The resulting circle has been divided into four pieces.
I need at least 6 Snowboard spaces so I split them in half to make 8 even parts.
All of these lines extend to the edge of the square so that I can use them to mark the outer diameter evenly on the pushpin, floss, pencil used on the same piece of plywood.
Once this is cut off, I can use it to track another circle.
As before, I just used floss twice.
For those who are not familiar with this method of drawing circles, I will explain it.
The pusher acts as an anchor for the floss and pencil to move around.
Floss is attached to the shaft of the pin and wound the tip of the pen several times at the appropriate length (
The radius of the last scribed circle)of floss.
This works best on mechanical pencils because they do not taper all the way to the lead, and the floss does not slip from the end at a very short distance.
Tip: If you want to draw 3 circles of the same size in this method, wrap the floss around the tip of the pencil, and then tie the free end to the pencil, so that the whole unit can be moved from place to place without having to re-
Floss every time (
Even two laps are a bit frustrating).
Once you wrap the pencil, then track the circle.
You need to turn the pencil as you move around so it doesn\'t entangle more floss.
Otherwise, you will be on the way to draw a really nice spiral instead of a circle.
After finishing all the layouts, it\'s time to cut.
Plywood with inner and outer rings becomes the base, and the cut section in the middle becomes the middle of the rack.
I use a 1/2 shovel bit to drill holes for the clamp saw.
The carpet covered it well so it\'s not a big deal.
I cut each circle in half so I don\'t have to adjust it too many times in the clip.
After removing these circles, the carpet is ready at the bottom and in the middle, but there is still a long way to go at the top.
Tip: When using a shovel, drill holes from one side of the plywood, but don\'t go through all the time.
Go until the tip of the bit goes through the other side.
Then, flip the board and drill through the remaining road from the other side with a shovel bit.
This eliminates the terrible blowout problem of the shovel bit and leads to cleaner holes.
I know that the slot at the top of the shelf needs to be about 3 inch wide in order to accept skis and poles.
I used a standard wooden gasket to track half of each slot on both sides of the eight dividing lines I drew.
The stone wall is almost 1 inch and a half wide.
I shortened it to 6 inch long though, which is different from what I originally planned, but there is something physical that can help adjust the measurements.
The corner of the slot is very close so I decided to reinforce the top with 8 blocks 1x2.
I set the 4x4 columns in the center at the top and then measure each \"rib\" individually \".
Track them where I measure them, number them, and number where they go, so it\'s easy to assemble them after cutting the slots.
For the sake of beauty, I put a 45 degree slope on my ribs.
The clamp saw is used again to cut the slot.
My clip let me down so I used my favorite improvise, 60 lbs.
Lead diving weight!
This is not the first time I \'ve used these tools like this, and it works really well without the need for traditional clips.
I fixed each rib to the lower side of the top with inch and quarter wood screws and standard wood glue.
The 1x2 I used in this project is very cheap wood and it is easy to crack when pushing the wood screw through it.
I practice. What I learned at work is pre-
Before biting the plywood, drill the wood out and let the screws go through.
I did the job with a 1/8 twist drill.
I don\'t have much experience with carpets, so covering every floor of a shelf with a carpet is a daunting task for me.
I started tracking each layer on the foam backing of the carpet I used.
I left about an inch more around each dress so that I could also wrap the edges of the plywood with a carpet.
When it came time to cut the carpet, I found that the \"carpet knife\" was a bad choice.
It tore off a pile of things on the carpet and made the edges very angry.
However, a good pair of scissors is faster and cleaner.
I made some trim in the middle and top of the carpet.
In the middle, I just found the center of the circle and cut a \"X \".
Slide it onto the center column so that I can cut off the triangle of the remaining material for a very clean fit.
The top is obviously more complex (
I bet you didn\'t see that guy coming. . . ).
I put the top on the corresponding carpet ring and go back to where I need to cut so I can do a clean fold along the edge.
If you used to build geometric entities by cutting and folding paper, then you are familiar with the pattern I drew for myself on the back of the carpet.
It was at this stage of the project that I realized that the flaps of the carpet could not provide the amount of gear I wanted.
I moved the gear and cut 8, 2 and a half inch long 1x2 pieces stuck to the flap.
This solution works for now, but I foresee the need to install hinges there so that the carpet does not tear along the seams between wood and plywood.
This is the most nerve-racking part of the project.
So far, a lot of effort has been spent, and if I screw it up, this step might get me back to the origin.
The adhesive I use is a form of contact with cement.
It is allowed to dry until the touch on the two surfaces connected becomes tacky.
Then press them together, and when the glue dries further, the instant glue becomes stronger.
I also chose the strongest glue I could find.
Once all the cuts and shaping are done, it\'s time.
I masked the parts of the top and central pillars to keep them clean and nice.
Once the glue started flying I had only a few minutes to press the carpet on the plywood.
At this point, I can say that it is not a wise choice to try to accomplish all three things at the same time, but I managed to do it.
The middle is the first part to be treated.
Because the diameter of this circle is small, the carpet tends to ripple when I try to roll it to the edge of the plywood.
I managed to minimize the problem and the ripples that still exist won\'t affect the look of things and deserve a fresh start.
The carpet even covered the pilot holes I cut for the saw blade.
On the basis that the inside of the ring is an equally small diameter circle, I am smarter.
I do the cutting every once in a while and let the carpet move as much as I want.
The final result is much better.
Sticking the carpet to it is a patient and quick workout --fire, spur-of-the-
Solve the problem instantly!
The shape is so complicated that even though I have learned to wait for the last second to apply the adhesive, I still have to spray things twice!
For the first time, I can only stick the carpet to the top of the plywood, starting from the edge.
The second spray is on the block of the flap and on the remaining non-bonded edges.
Then, in the crazy event, I pressed every side of the rest in place.
I think I got paid off, though.
It was perfect when I turned my top over and looked at it!
The picture I took was unfair.
It makes the chaos around it worth it.
The block that helps keep uses the carpet as a hinge.
I cut the carpet at the seams on the top edge so that the only continuous carpet between plywood and 1x2 is the top carpet.
This allows me to flip the block, place the skis and poles in the slot, and then flip it off to keep the racks there as they turn.
This is the time to start assembling the rack itself.
I still have some problems to overcome, though.
The front and rear angle of the seat holder is small and I need to correct it before I place the middle, central column and top in place.
I found that the wooden spacers I used to track the slots were also perfect for leveling the brackets on the top half of the rack.
The seat is bolted so the hole is too big for the wood screws.
I used two of my plywood to get the screws through.
I also drilled two holes on each side to add more screws.
Once I was sure it would work, I moved to the base that had to be connected before the middle part.
I have to find a way to stick it on the leg of the chair.
The solution here is also very simple.
I just used five metal washers and wood screws to go through the plastic (pre-drilled)
Legs and plywood base.
The five gaskets are used to help keep the legs not bent when the screws are tightened.
Next, stick the top and middle together and screw to the center column.
The gasket, which is glued to the middle and under the upper half of the rack, is glued below, followed by eight wooden screws.
I have nothing that is not thorough.
This is where I stopped in a day.
All the work done so far has been done in one day and is no longer the same day.
I took some pictures of the quick action and called it done temporarily.
OK, the shelf provides about a week\'s service in its appearance.
It can still move the seat pivot independently of the base, so if the top turns too much relative to the bottom, the skis will most likely fall off the base.
Initially, I planned to install a bolt on the steel support shaft under the seat bracket.
Instead, I removed the base from my leg and attached it to the middle, leaving only the seat pivot.
The wheels on the legs work but are not very smooth.
The seat pivot is smoother, so even if the skis and poles are in-hand.
It may be important to note that the pieces I used to attach the base to the 2x2 in the middle are asymmetrical.
This is done to bypass the seat bracket, which is a rather awkward shape.
Each end of the six parts used is cut to an angle of about 14 degrees to explain the horizontal movement between the middle and the base ring.
Again, connect them together with glue and wood screws.
Warning, the twist drill eats the carpet!
Be careful to drill holes when screws go through the carpet.
Now, the rack meets every standard I started.
I am satisfied with what I have now.
It works perfectly and I even managed to get out of the UBF (
Ugly but practical.
DIY business unit!
I really like the way the carpet finishes the shelf look.
Apart from looking great, it has other benefits, the skis don\'t slide off the bottom and it absorbs water that may flow out of the skis.
I have learned a lot about this project and many of the methods I have learned in the process are being incorporated into other projects that I am currently working on.
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