reupholster an office chair
It\'s a pity;
The interior decoration has worn out in most cases, but the chair itself is still rock solid.
I am a confused worker, so my office is always in a state of chaos.
My chair doesn\'t have a better shape, and when the tears in the seat look like they\'re trying to run out of the office, I know it\'s time for the remodel.
I don\'t want to be one of those people who kicked the chair to the side of the road because of the interior decoration failure!
I moved it to my studio and gave it Cinderella-like treatment.
For those who are afraid to try the interior decoration, the dining chair is a great way to start wet your feet.
This is my experience in interior decoration before doing this office chair, so you can do it if I can!
The best part of this project is that I reuse every point of the original decoration on the chair (
Also used the remaining material for another project)
So there is little waste.
Since I have never redecorated my office chair before, this is an unknown area for me.
Nothing is more fun than challenging and learning new skills!
I would love to know how the factory is done professionally so I can replicate it as much as possible.
For this item you need: I also made a pattern for the back and panel with brown wrapping paper.
You can use a normal DingTalk gun, but I think it\'s too hard to squeeze;
Having a compressor with a pneumatic stapler is a real handsaver!
I have divided this project into three stages: seat, back and back.
If you break it down in this way, it doesn\'t seem so insurmountable to finish such an ambitious project for the first time.
For example, you can set a goal to complete each stage in 3 days or even 3 weekends --
How you want to adjust your pace depends on you.
I guess it also depends on how fast you need your chair :)
First of all, I put the chair on the side of it and explore how it is separated.
It was a bit daunting to look at all the levers, but I noticed that there were 4 big screws in the center and removed them.
I thought the arm rest of the chair would fall off as well, but it was not necessary at this stage.
I removed one and left the other on it so I could support it to get some leverage (
Once it\'s on my Workbench (
I finally removed the other arm so that once the fabric was replaced in step 6 I could manipulate it).
Interestingly, there is not much DingTalk around the seat to hold the fabric.
All the work of collecting the fabric is done by a black grosgren ribbon tape that goes through it;
Do it in such an interesting way!
I decided to use this ribbon again;
When you remove the DingTalk, you must be careful not to let the rope slip out of the slot.
I removed all the DingTalk with my interior decoration DingTalk Puller (
Shown in the second picture).
Before taking out the nail holding the rope, make a knot at the end of each rope.
This will prevent the wire from slipping accidentally-believe me, you don\'t want it to be untied or you\'ll have to feed it back through the small slot on the ribbon, which won\'t be fun!
Fortunately, the manufacturer left enough wires to use before cutting off the wires, otherwise I had to replace it.
I did a quick Google search and couldn\'t find anything like that online so I don\'t know what it\'s called or where I can buy it again (
Please leave me a message if anyone knows)!
To save the ribbon, I had to cut the straight seam line with the seam ripper and the serger line that fixed it on the fabric.
It\'s a bit time consuming, so I just turn the music up while listening to music and refrigerate it.
To break the monotony, I will leave every once in a while and come back again.
When it finally came out of the fabric, I picked out all the loose lines from the ribbon and fabric and put the ribbon on one side.
Now is the time to cut new fabrics;
I make patterns with old cloth.
If you have a direction pattern like me (shells)
, Make sure all the pattern blocks are placed on the fabric in the same direction.
I want the fat end of the shell pointing down (
As you can see later on in the finished Chair).
I fold the new fabric to the right, put the old fabric on it and fix it around (
My antique iron held it down).
As I discovered only after cutting the fabric, the old fabric has been deformed, so it is now larger than the length of the ribbon;
I had to adjust and re-
Cut the fabric so that the perimeter is the same size as the ribbon.
This part is a bit wrong.
After the fabric is cut, be sure to iron all the creases with a steam iron, otherwise they will always be on the chair you have finished.
Don\'t be lazy, skip this step!
Needle wire ribbon use 1/4 \"stitch patch on perimeter and seam
Do not accidentally sew on the rope or you will not be able to pull it through). Because I re-
With the ribbon, it has been collected on the seat cushion and you have to straighten the area you are sewing so there is no collection, then push the assembled part forward to the area you just stitched so that the next part goes well.
It sounds confusing, but it will make sense once you get to this stage.
Once the ribbon is stitched, I also slide on the edge.
Again, you need to move what is collected so that you can sew on uncollected fabrics at serge\'s time.
Once you\'re done, you can put the new cover on the seat cushion.
You need to tighten it when you go to make it evenly distributed.
Wear goggles and gloves.
Where the wires cross, add the nails in a zigzag way, as shown in the figure, fix them in the appropriate position (
I forgot to take a photo with the actual fabric;
This is a previous lens).
I use my air compressor to place DingTalk around with a pneumatic DingTalk gun.
I find it difficult to stretch the fabric to the side in some places, so do your best to make it evenly distributed.
Turn it over and appreciate your work!
Now open the back and back of the chair.
I don\'t know how to take it apart, but I noticed that a seam was running all the time, so I inserted my nail puller and pulled it at the edge.
To my delight and relief, it exploded right away.
The group was nailed together by a small head DingTalk.
They enter the backrest directly through the fabric of the panel, because the head is small, so they go straight through the fabric; brilliant!
I noted how close the edge of the pin is so that when I put it back together I can reverse engineer it again.
I also noticed that this time, the loose ribbon was not collected with a rope.
Instead, the manufacturer simply rotates on the edge of the fabric and then inserts a rope along the serger line!
Again, I decided to do the same thing.
Remove all the pins with needle nose pliers.
I didn\'t bother to remove the fabric for the back panel, so I made a paper sample.
Expand some brown paper and put the panel on it.
Mark the top and bottom, then scroll the panel to the right when tracking the profile.
Scroll to the left and track the other side.
Measured with a ruler, now you need to add a lot of allowance to the pattern on the edge.
Add the seam allowance to the pattern.
I added 3/8 \"around \".
Cut the pattern
Before you nail and cut the fabric, write down the direction in which you want the fabric to run.
If your fabric has a pattern or nap, you will want everything to run in the same direction.
Put an arrow on the pattern in your determined direction to help you remember --
And consistent with your other works (
I did, but forgot to take a picture in the last photo).
Once the fabric is cut, wrap it around the edge with a blunt needle, and then feed the wire through the coil (
I used some artificial silk knit yarn I left from another project).
Start the rope at the center of the bottom, and once you get back to the beginning, make sure you cross the yarn so that the two lines overlap-tighten them in the opposite direction more easily when they are crossed
Place the panel on the wrong side of the fabric and collect the fabric by pulling the wire until it is neat and tight around the panel.
I fixed the fabric in four positions with some light and shallow staples, plus a few staples as tortuous as I fixed the rope in the proper position with a seat cushion.
The last picture shows the finished rear panel.
Please note that the housing is in the same direction as the seat cushion.
I could have ironed it a little better (
Can also see the faint creases)!
The last piece is the back;
Lights at the end of the tunnel!
The backrest is fixed on a metal bracket with three screws;
After removing the panel, the screws are exposed and can be screwed.
Again, I decided not to remove the fabric, but to make a new pattern like a back plate.
Make paper samples and cut the fabric using the directions outlined above (
Same direction as other parts).
Rotate at the edge, insert the wire, place the new fabric on the back of the chair and collect the fabric.
Reverse it and then fix it around in the same way as the rear panel.
I used a heavier gauge nail on the back than I used on the panel because the depth and usage of the material were different.
As an additional precaution, before I put the back plate nail back to the back, I marked the position where the staples were (
Only when they are 1 inch off the edge-this is where I want to nail).
By knowing where the staple food is, I can prevent some potential bouncing when I nail it on the back board.
I also dried the back plate with green tape and did the same thing to mark the potential danger of having a staple.
I needed an extra pair of hands at this point and my husband jumped in directly to help.
He fixed the rear panel in place and when I nailed it in from the edge around the panel, he squeezed it together.
It might be a good idea for him to wear gloves just in case, but when I move the nail gun around, he carefully keeps his hand away from the target area.
What I should also mention is that we all wear eye protection-you can\'t be too careful.
Remove the green tape.
Most nail heads go straight through the tissue of most fabrics.
But if necessary, reduce any fabric that may be stuck on your nails with a blunt sewing needle so you don\'t see any folds --or the nails.
All the nail heads should be under the fabric so they disappear.
Figure is an example of a nail that needs to be fixed (
This is what you don\'t want it to look like).
Here she is wearing a new red dress and everything is over.
Now that it\'s done, you can sit down and lighten the burden and try it out!
The chair looks great, I have a red accent in my craft studio and it\'s hard to put it back in the office upstairs!
I think I have to find another used Chair of the same model.
They also don\'t do the same as before: this was made by a global company in 1998 and I was very impressed with the architecture (
As you can see in previous photos, it has been used heavily for years! ).
This is the second of a series of 3 chairs I made in my new process studio.
The first one is the drafting chair you saw in the last photo.
If you would like to try an interior decoration project that is easier to start, please check on the badminton Bird (
If you are interested in DIY projects at home and around, you can subscribe).
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