how to make a modern home office desk -
Inspired wood pieces with a white accent.
For this project, I would like to make a computer desk for my wife that matches the pastel
Color steel cabinet.
I also want to stop the mess so there won\'t be drawers but will contain the extended features that most desks on the market lack.
The design was inspired by something I \'ve seen before, but I remember it cost thousands of dollars, so I decided to build one for myself.
The table or table will have a hidden cable management system and a dry one
Erase the surface on the desktop.
Because the table is big (30-in x 60-in)
, I want the leg to be removable so I can move it to another room or ship it out when needed.
The material used by ListI is the actual size, not the nominal size, and the price is rounded to the nearest $3/4-in.
Solid wood plywood, 4x8-ft. -
$50 Poplar Square 1. 5-in. x 1. 5-in. x 36-in. (6 pcs)-$23 5/16-in. x 2. 5-in.
Standard hex bolts$16 0. 75-in x 3. 5-in. x 8-ft.
Loose plate-$12 3-in.
Angle brackets (8 pcs. )
, Flat L stand and patch board-
$10 screws-$6 5/16-in. x 1-in.
Threaded insert for Hex Bolts$21. 5-in. x 48-in.
Bright nickel continuous hinge-$100. 75-in. dowel -
Rubber trim-$3$727 oz.
White gloss dry erase kit$201 qt.
Remove wood stains
$8 = total: $168 the table top material can be replaced with a cheaper board made of dark wood stains or a medium fiber board covered by a primer, but the panel is thinner
The cut is simple.
For the legs, I cut to an angle of 6 degrees
I have 4x8 pre-
Cut to my desktop size at Home Depot, and I cut the rest with a diagonal saw.
Since I decided that this table could be disassembled for shipping, I chose the standard hex bolt as my main fastener and passed it to the threaded plug-in through the wood material.
I used two fasteners. a 5/16-in.
Standard hex bolts and 1/4-in.
The round head bolt uses a diameter guide to mark the exact location of the hole.
Then I started with a pilot hole two sizes smaller than my bolt.
If you need to connect the board to another board, I clamp the two together before drilling through the second board.
I put a drop of oil on the bolt and then drive it with a power drive.
Then I drove a threaded nut to the second board.
Earlier I stopped drilling half an inch less than the length of the nut so it could embed itself for the rest of the time.
I deliberately let the bolt heads come out because they make a good industrial contrast to the soft wood texture.
I added an angle bracket of 1/4-in. x 1/2-in metal screw.
Shallow depth ensures that when I drive the screws all the way, it does not create bumps on the surface of the desktop on the other side.
When faced with the alignment problem of the Bolt, I slowly turned a few laps at a time until the joint was closed. The cross-
The leg bracket is placed in a higher position to make room for the metal cabinets that partially span under the table.
I put the middle
The beam support goes further back to the position corresponding to the position of the main load of the iMac desktop computer.
The rear compartment will hold the power bar, the desktop backup drive, and hide the cable.
I could have used the extra primer to lay the floor, but I used the scrap board because it couldn\'t be seen anyway.
The rear compartment is assembled together by the patch board and the L bracket. I used flat-
Head screw and put glue into the hole to increase adhesion.
I drilled an inch with a bright nickel continuous hinge door
There is a hole in the middle of the size, not a drawer.
I added a ventilated opening and made a cover temporarily from the leaf screen of the drain.
I polished the entire surface of the desktop and marked the border with an awl (
So the paint edges will be clean. looking)
I applied 3 coats to make sure the drying time on the label was increased by 30 minutes.
According to the label, rust-
The white gloss dry erase kit for Oleum is the best choice for one-time use.
Before peeling the tape, I let it dry overnight and cross the border again.
I added a shoe base mold to the lower side of the desktop to blunt edge.
I started to insert the puzzle with 2 small holes.
I smooth the jagged edges with Dremel.
I used a Bonded veneer edge to hide the plywood crossingsection.
There will be 4 pins in dry placeserase area.
They act as a voltage divider or slot to charge the phone on the side.
I added the power strip and hid the cable through the insulated pipe clamp.
I hope you like my guidance as much as you do this project.
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