hack an office chair into a \"hill billy high chair\"

by:Frank Tech     2019-10-31
The chair is for those who make an awesome high table but realize that they want to sit once in a while and still work at a reasonable height.
The project started with a friend taking home a used computer chair. Nothing special.
There is a similar one that I bought from Amazon for $60)
It\'s been sitting too long for me to crack it. . . .
When I choose so, I really want a chair that is enough for me to sit on a standing table, but the only viable option I can find is a bar stool style chair, these chairs
So I started looking for reusable items and the idea impressed me: disconnect the computer chair from the base and add a frame that fits the necessary height adjustments but remains stable and balanced.
What I came up with is a basic 2x4 box frame that doesn\'t particularly simplify the body of the chair, but it doesn\'t work much less.
With this, let me introduce you. I like to call hillbilly high chair, mainly for poetic effect.
Tools used: Tape measure/Square saw fixture3)
8 feet 2x4sLeftover pieces of OSB (4)0.
Threaded nuts and washers (25 inch)2)
A few cans of black paint. 5 inch c1.
You need an Allen wrench for this step.
Remove 4 hex bolts.
Keep all the parts. Cut to length (4)
2x4 pieces at 12, 18 and 23 inch hours.
This process is required (3)
8 feet 2x 4S with some scrap left.
These sizes are a function of the extra height you want to add and the size of the office chair.
My office chair is 25 inch wide from the outside arm rest to the outside arm rest.
With this, I know that my support structure needs to be similar to the interface width at the bottom of the chair.
Also, the extra height I need to sit comfortably on a high table (
The top is 40 inch)was 12 inches.
Build the top of the frame by connecting 18 inch pieces to the end of 23 inch pieces.
This will result in an external size of 18x26 inch.
To do this, I pre-
Drill two holes for each connection and use (2)2.
Thick threaded deck screws 5 inch.
Build the bottom box in exactly the same way.
Complete the frame, by connecting the top and bottom frames to 12 inch pieces, connecting the rotating base of the chair to the actual chair part.
Make sure that the 12 inch Post is flush with the surface of the top and bottom box and then use (2-4)2.
5 inch deck screws per joint.
Finally, I chose to use (4)
The screws of each joint ensure the absolute certainty of the structure. . .
Because I will sit on it.
Finally, cut the rectangular block of OSB 18x26 inch and attach it to the bottom of the box frame.
This will serve as an interface between the original swivel base of the chair and the frame of the box you just built.
To connect the OSB sheet to the frame, I used a few 1.
25 thick threaded wood screws.
This is the hardest part and requires a little math/tricks.
First, I put the chair in the center of the box frame.
Next, I added a stand between the chair and the frame until the level of the chair.
Without this wedge, the chair tilts or rolls to one side because its bottom is bent.
Once the level was reached, I measured the distance the chair ended up staying on the frame to the frame itself.
This distance is the same as the distance required for the center of the chair to drop into the frame.
Figure 1 describes the task.
Figure 2 shows the profile I generated based on previous measurements.
I followed the same process for the rear.
Because its curvature is much smaller, the depth needed later is much smaller.
I removed the Overview section using aJig Sawto.
Finally, I polished the curved part of the frame until the chair fits in with the frame (Image 5).
In this step, the rotating base is reconnected to keep the mobility of the chair and the overall awe-inspiring.
The rotary base was initially secured to the bottom of the chair with 4 hex bolts inserted into the tee nut plug-in for the wood.
Figure 3 is a screen shot of some tee nut inserts from McMaster Carr that resemble the inserts on the chair.
Since I was worried about extracting and then implementing these in my design, I used some 0.
25 inch 20 threads and 0.
Replace 25 washers with the original hex bolts.
Before all this, I have to determine the optimal position where the rotating base is attached to my frame, as the CG of the chair has now changed dramatically.
I need to find a suitable position so that the chair does not lean when the person sitting in the chair is leaning back/forward or left and right.
For this I used several drywall screws with 0.
There are 25 inch washers on the base. . .
Then I sat on the frame in different positions to test the stability.
Tried several times, but I found that the best position to rotate the base column is to center from left to right, slightly behind the center of the frame to offset the natural backward tilt of the chair.
Figure 4 shows the temporary fastening for quick change and adjustment, while Figure 5 shows my initial configuration attempt.
Figure 6 is the final position, achieving the best balance.
Finally, I added a 18 inch beam to the inside of the frame, and the rotating base is attached to it to increase rigidity and reduce any creaking.
Figure 7 shows the results of this step.
Figure 8 shows how bolts, washers and nuts are combined to connect the rotating base to the bottom of the wooden box frame.
This step takes some time to figure out how to fix the chair to the new frame.
I don\'t want the UN-
Fix the chair on the frame or something like that. . .
So I found about 2 inch corner brackets in Home Depot that were fixed on the wooden box frame and the hard plastic arm of the original chair.
These brackets prevent the chair from sliding down from the frame, they do not bear the weight of the person sitting on the chair, just the lateral or twisting loads, which are few in terms of sitting.
This step is not necessary, but when I put the chair on the frame of the wood box, I think it looks a bit inappropriate.
So I used two cans for $0.
98 kinds of black paint from Wal-Mart, give it a clean all black surface.
It could take 20 minutes for this step and I let it dry overnight.
The next morning, I re-
Fix the chair on the frame with angle brackets.
The pictures show the final product, highlighting the results of each step.
As you can see, the chair is suitable for the application, not too heavy, and maintains the mobility and flexibility of the typical office chair at a higher level.
* Please forgive the messy table, I am in the transition phase.
I had a friend sit in a chair and test it two months after I built it and used it for the first time.
\"It\'s perfect,\" he said.
\"These are some pictures of him sitting on the Hill, Billy high chair, browsing the web on my high Desk/bench.
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